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Desert GardeningCacti from seed
Desert gardening classes
Drought concern
Drought, what to plant
Freezing and thawing
Fragrant plants
Grasses, best type for NM
High altitude plants in NM
Junipers great for NM (pollen issues)
Landscapes, so. NM & El Paso
Rockscape vs. xericscape
Xeriscaping in winter
Xeriscape planting in dry years
Yucca in landscape
Cacti from seed
Q. I have many beautiful cacti in my rock garden. I have tried many times to plant the seeds, but I have never had any luck with planting cacti seeds. Is there anything special that needs to be done to make the seeds germinate?
A. Cacti are usually propagated vegetatively from cuttings as it is more easily accomplished than growing them from seeds; however, it should be possible to grow the seeds as well. If the seeds are well formed in the fruit, they should be alive and capable of growing. However, your cacti seeds will probably have dormancy factors within them to prevent their germination until environmental conditions are correct. This is very important to plants native to temperate, arid regions. The temperatures much be right; that is, the season should be proper, and there must be sufficient moisture for the seedling to grow sufficiently to survive the coming periods of insufficient water.
To overcome these dormancy factors it is probably necessary (I say "probably" because you didn’t identify the species of cacti) to 1) scarify the seeds by scratching the seed coat with a small file or piece of sandpaper, then 2) soak the seed in several changes of water to leach away any chemicals which prevent germination, and finally 3) to stratify the seeds by storing them in moist vermiculite sealed in a plastic bag in a refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks.
Once the seeds have been pre-treated in the manner described above, they may be planted in a moist, well-drained soil (potting soil mixed with sharp sand). Keep the seed moist in a brightly lighted, warm location until the seedlings appear. While the plants are small, do not let the soil dry, but do not water too often either.
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Coming drought: what to plant?
Q. The reports say that this is going to be a hot, dry year. I just bought a home and wanted to landscape. How will this expected drought affect my landscaping?
A. I hope that the predicted drought will encourage many people to consider landscapes which use plants better adapted to our soils and climate than many of the older, traditional New Mexico landscapes. I also hope that the principles of xeriscaping will be employed. Please don't confuse a true xeriscape, which is a fully vegetated landscape with the rockscapes which have been employed to reduce water use. These rockscapes create heat islands around homes and can greatly increase water consumption by evaporative coolers.
There are many attractive plants available in nurseries which are adapted to landscape consuming less water. The principles of xeriscaping include the use of mulching materials to reduce water loss from the soil. They also prevent wind erosion and may reduce weed problems. Installation of efficient irrigation systems and designing the landscape to create zones of low, moderate, and high water use are also important so that all plants do not receive the highest amounts of water.
So, as you begin landscaping, consider applying the principles of xeriscape and search the nurseries for plants best adapted to New Mexico soils and climates. If you do this, this year's predicted drought and future droughts will have little impact on your landscape.
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Drought still? 5-99
Q. Now that we had so much spring rain, are we still concerned with drought?
A. From discussions I have had with others interested in the water situation in New Mexico, the answer is yes, we are still concerned with the limited water available in New Mexico. The lower than usual snowpack in the mountains means that there will be less water available in the rivers and streams. This will also reduce the recharge of water in many of our underground aquifers. If the above average precipitation continues through the summer, it would be nice but would not change the fact that there is reduced snowpack. It would not remove the concerns regarding the drought.
It is always important to remember that New Mexico is in an arid geographical region. Even moist years are dry by the standards of many other states in the country. We must always manage our water carefully.
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Freezing and Thawing
Q. In this week's cold weather, temperatures were reported as low as 10 to 15 degrees. I noticed that some of the plants in the flowerbed near my house were not killed. Some look quite well. How can this be?
A. There are several considerations in determining why your plants faired so well. First, the reported temperature is probably not the temperature experienced at your house. There can be considerable variation in temperatures over a relatively small geographic area. This difference is increased by the location of the flowerbed near your house. Structures and walls absorb heat during the day and radiate that heat to nearby objects at night. They may also radiate heat from inside the house (leaking the heat you paid for). Because of this, the area of the flowerbed may be considerably warmer than an area several feet away. The location of the flowerbed relative to north and south may also have a great influence. North sides remain shaded and cold while south sides absorb the greatest amount of solar radiation to warm the soil and structure. This protects plants on that side from the lowest potential temperatures.
Another consideration is the type of plant. Some plants are killed quickly by freezing temperatures; others protect themselves by becoming dormant. Some plants just tolerate the cold until some limiting cold temperature is reached, then the plants die. This temperature limit will vary from one type of plant to another. Another consideration may also be how quickly the plant warmed after freezing. Some plants can freeze and thaw again if the thawing is slow. In this case, plants on the south side of a building may be at a disadvantage unless it remains cloudy.
As you know there are some plants that appear to be green and healthy even during very cold weather. These include junipers, pines, and other evergreens. Surprisingly, plants such as rosemary also remain green and active through the winter in much of New Mexico. In fact, winter is the season when they are most actively blooming. They are among the plants, however, that will do well until a limiting cold temperature is suddenly achieved, then they will die or exhibit damage.
Finally, plants benefit from gradually lowering temperatures. If a warm autumn season suddenly gives way to extreme cold, plants that could otherwise survive may die. The relatively gradual downward movement of temperatures this year has allowed many plants to acclimate and survive.
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High altitude plants in NM 4-01
Q. I can’t seem to find a sturdy flowering ground cover or flowering plants to grow at my house which is at an elevation of 8500 feet. I’ve spend hundreds of dollars on different plants, but lilac, raspberry bushes, and sumac are the only plants that made it through the snows. Diana Stein, Jemez Springs
A. Your elevation creates complications and opportunities. Some flowers that do well at lower, hotter elevations may do poorly under the conditions at your home, but there are plants that will do very well at higher locations. Besides being cooler and having more moisture at higher elevations, you are likely to have more shade from the trees common at higher elevations. The shade creates some benefits and liabilities of its own. If the shade is too dense, some thinning may be helpful. After last year’s fires, there is growing interest in thinning the forest around homes, creating better environments for landscape plants. Consider fire safety as you develop your landscape.
Now, plants for your area include many bulb plants, annual and biennial flowers that are grown in cooler climates, and perennial plants that will survive the winter. I will list a few of these, but there are many more. As you read books and magazines looking for others, remember that your soil may be too alkaline for some plants. A soil test will help you determine your exact soil pH and salt conditions. This knowledge will help you in making plant selections. You may need to create raised beds for some of these plants to have enough soil depth for them to grow well since soils are shallow in many high elevation locations. The bulb plants and some of the herbaceous perennials will need soil at least one or two feet deep. Bulbs to consider include: tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, crocuses, lilies and many others.
Some herbaceous perennials will also be good choices with the bulbs. These include: peonies, columbines, bleeding hearts, oriental poppies, some varieties of flowering sedums, and perhaps chrysanthemums. The daffodils seem to be more deer and rabbit repellant than some of the others, so you may need to provide some wildlife protection. Siberian squill is another flowering bulb that will be distasteful to wildlife. It is toxic to humans, so don’t use this one if you have children who might be tempted to eat them. (My children never had problems with this when they were young, but they were taught to ask before eating any plant in the garden.)
Many annuals and biennials will grow well under high elevation conditions if they receive adequate light. Some good choices include: pansies, johnny-jump-ups, sweet alyssum, marigolds, cosmos, calendulas, California poppies, Shirley poppies, sweet williams, foxgloves, and hollyhocks. Many of these will re-seed and return year after year. The choice of flowering groundcover plants may be somewhat more limited, but there are some choices. Vinca minor is a good choice for you. Rocky Mountain zinnia will die back each year, but return to create a colorful groundcover each summer. There are a variety of groundcover sedum plants which will flower. The alyssum mentioned earlier, although an annual, will return from seed each year and serve as a summer groundcover. California poppies, if grown densely, can also serve in this manner. This list is very limited, but shows some of the plants available to you.
Your elevation gives you many opportunities uncommon in for New Mexico. I’m sure you already enjoy the unique benefits of your location; now you can also enjoy the unique gardening benefits.
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Junipers great for NM
Q. I hate junipers! Every spring I have hay fever, and I think it is because of the junipers. Unfortunately, junipers grow well in my landscape and need little care. Is there any way to prevent them from making pollen, or is it necessary to remove all of them from my property?
A. Junipers are one of the plants causing hay fever at this time of the year, and junipers are excellent landscape plants for New Mexico soils and climates. There is no good way to prevent the production of pollen other than planting only female clones of juniper. The female clones are the ones that produce the blue-gray, berry-like cones. Junipers produce male flowers (which make the pollen) on one plant and the female flowers (which make the cones) on separate plants.
If you wish to have the benefits of junipers without the problem caused by the pollen, use only the cone-bearing plants. You may want to remove any male junipers from your landscape and replace them with the female juniper plants. You can identify the male plant because it does produce a small "pollen cone" which dries soon after flowering. These can be seen as brown ends on the twigs in the early summer. During flowering, it is easy to tell which are male plants by bumping the plants and watching the cloud of irritating pollen rising from the plant. Be sure to stand upwind of the plant as you do this. When you buy plants to replace the male junipers, if you choose other junipers, purchase plants with the cones on them. Of course, there are other plants to use, but junipers are excellent landscape plants for New Mexico, especially the female junipers!
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Landscapes for southern NM & El Paso 5-01
Q. My husband would like to plant plants and groundcover in our front yard that uses little or no watering. Could you please suggest something and how to care for these plants? Almost everything that we have tried to plant has died. Your help would be greatly appreciated. I’m tired of having an UGLY yard!
A. In your location it is difficult to have a landscape that uses no water, but one requiring little irrigation can be achieved. However, it will be necessary to irrigate for a while until the plants have become established. The length of the establishment time requiring irrigation varies from plant to plant and soil preparation factors but can be a year or more for trees. Some shrubs and perennials can establish more quickly. Use of mulch can also reduce the need for applied water. Another useful technique is the use of harvested water; that is, to direct roof run-off water from rains to the root zone of landscape plants.
It is important to discover why your earlier plantings have failed. Were they watered enough to allow them to establish themselves in the landscape? Were they appropriate plants? Are there weed control chemicals in the soil which are preventing their establishment? If there are persistent weed control chemicals in the soil, the problem can be solved but it will be difficult. To test for this potential problem, put some of your landscape soil in a flower pot and plant some bean and corn seeds (or some broad-leaf plant and a grass). If there are chemicals in the soil, characteristic symptoms should develop in the plants. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office with help if this is the problem.
Container-grown plants may be a solution. If the soil does not contain harmful chemicals, then proper plant selection, irrigation for establishment, mulching, and other good management techniques should be adequate to create an attractive landscape. Plants to consider are numerous, and I will list only a small selection here. Groundcover plants and lower-growing flowering plants to consider include: iceplant, Rocky Mountain zinnia, desert marigold, evening primrose, California poppy, Calylophus (sun drops), desert four o’clock, penstemons, and many others. Shrubs to consider are: Buddleia (butterfly bush), Leucophyllum (Texas sage), creosote bush (beautiful if irrigated only slightly),evergreen sumac, Texas mountain laurel, broom dalea (purple sage), hoary rosemary mint (very fragrant foliage), cliff fendlerbush, Ephedra (Mormon tea), Apache plume, Algerita, Artemisia sagebrush species, and many others. There are many shrubs that will grow well in your hot, dry location. Some will do very will with little more than harvested water once they are established.
There are also trees to consider. Some become large, others are small: New Mexico Buckeye, western soapberry, fragrant ash, mesquite, palo verde, desert willow, Emory oak (evergreen), Texas madrone (very beautiful bark), junipers, and many others. Don’t fail to consider ornamental grasses. These are not grown as a lawn but as attractive clumps of grass used like we use shrubs in the landscape. Many of these will require little or no water once established. Of course there are numerous succulent plants to consider. Succulent plants include: agave, nolina, yucca, and the cacti. The plants listed above should grow well in El Paso, West Texas, and southern New Mexico. Many of them will also grow in more northern parts of New Mexico and at higher elevation, but not all are adapted to the colder regions.
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Rockscape isn't xeriscape?
Q. I have converted my landscape to xeriscape to reduce water use as I have heard recommended many times. However, I am told that my landscape is not a xeriscape. I spent a lot of money on rock, gravel, and colorful concrete paving stones. Why isn't my landscape a xeriscape? Enclosed is a photo of my expensive new landscape.
A. Your photo reveals a landscape often called "Southwest landscaping" and sometimes incorrectly called "Xeriscape." Your landscape is predominantly gravel and hard paving with little landscaping in the sense of living plant material. When we teach about xeriscapes, we include consideration of the livability and living aspects of the landscape. If you look at the natural landscape of New Mexico and other areas of the Southwest, you will notice that these landscapes are full of life. These native landscapes include many native grasses, shrubs, and flowering plants. They provide habitat for birds and other animals. The rock landscape you have described is very different from such natural landscapes. That is why your landscape is not considered a xeriscape by all who see it.
The rocks and other hard materials may be a part of a xeriscape, but there is a greater use of living elements in a xeriscape. In a xeriscape there will be many plants utilizing the rocks and other mulching materials as a mulch to reduce moisture loss, to maintain uniform soil temperatures, and to restrict weed growth. In time the mulches will be relatively unseen as the plants grow and cover them. With plant cover, the temperatures of the landscape will be lower than the purely rock landscape. It is true that a rock landscape reduces water use in the landscape, but the increased water use in a swamp cooler decreases the benefits of landscape water savings. A rock landscape may have lower maintenance requirements than a xeriscape, but the difference may not be as much as you expect. Dust and leaves collect in the rocks. As the rock area fills with dust, weeds are able to grow and require removal as do leaves which blow in and accumulate between the rocks.
As you can see, as a horticulturist I favor a landscape with more plant material. To me, it is much more beautiful and interesting. A true xeriscape is just such a landscape. However, I acknowledge that there are those who like the rock landscapes. The major conflict is the use of the term "xeriscape" to describe the rockscape.
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Which Grasses Best for Northern NM
Q. When can I plant grass in Northern New Mexico? I want a lawn which does not use too much water, so what grass should I plant?
A. When to plant depends on the type of grass planted. In Northern New Mexico you can plant fescue or Kentucky bluegrass for long seasons of green, but they require more irrigation. They are the ones to consider if the grass is to be used heavily as an athletic field or for a children's’ play area. These grasses you can plant now in Northern New Mexico. At lower elevations they will be stressed by the heat in late June, so plant soon so they will be established before the heat reaches its maximum.
To conserve water in areas which are for aesthetic (ornamental) use, not athletic use, consider planting our native warm season grasses. Buffalograss and blue gramma grass should do well for your landscape. For athletic use in the southern part of the state, bermuda grass may be planted by sod, plugs or seeding. These warm season grasses may be planted now but prefer warmer soil for germination and may also be planted later. If you choose to delay, an important thing to remember regarding them is to give them at least a month to a month and a half to establish before the first killing frost in the fall is expected in your area. This allows time for the "crown" to form. This is the part of the grass plant from which the leaves and "tillers" are formed. If the crown has not been formed, the plants are subject to winter kill.
In either case, be sure to get any existing weeds under control. Perennial weeds can be especially problematic in a lawn. To identify your weeds and determine appropriate control measures, you may wish to contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office or a reputable nursery.
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Xeriscaping in winter 12-01
Q. Can I plant a xeriscape in the winter?
A. Planting is possible if the soil is not frozen, but some of the plants may have a difficult time surviving until their roots begin growing. For some xeriscape plants, much root growth occurs in the summer (monsoon season) when water is naturally available. Other plants will transplant easily and develop roots in the spring. Winter is a great time for planning. It is also a good time for installing non-living elements of the landscape if the ground isn’t frozen and you can work outside. Installation of an irrigation system can be done in the winter, but there is a hazard in testing the system for leaks if you don’t drain it well and nighttime freezing is likely. It is unwise to install the system and cover it with soil without testing for leaks. If you can drain it after testing, this is not a concern. Walls may be built, soil may be graded, and much of the physical work done in the winter as long as the soil is workable.
As stated above, plants may be installed, but that depends on the type of plant. Even plants which can be planted now will probably establish better if you wait a little while to plant them. So, yes you can install at least portions of a xeriscape in the winter if you watch the weather forecasts carefully.
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Xeriscape planting in dry years 5-02
Q. It has already been dry this year, and the forecast doesn't look better. Is this a good year to plant a xeriscape?
A. This is a good year to have a xeriscape, but it may not be a good year to plant a xeriscape. Whether or not to plant depends on the availability of water in your area. Santa Fe is under some pretty severe restriction as are other cities. Other parts of the state are also considering imposing restrictions. Some plants used in xeriscapes are not capable of surviving with no irrigation. Others that may be able to survive without supplemental irrigation once established need water when first planted.
Newly planted xeriscape plants need frequent irrigation until they are established. If that water is not available, the plants may fail to establish and the effort and money expended will be lost. It may be possible to plant a few slower-growing plants so that they can help form the foundation of the landscape. Then additional plants may be added in subsequent years if water is available. The basic consideration is water. If watering restrictions are in effect, or anticipated, plant only what can be maintained within the requirements of the plant during the establishment phase.
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Yucca as landscape plant
Q. I live in the northeast section of Albuquerque at an altitude of about 6200 feet. My wife recently bought two yucca trees for the back yard similar to the ones I see all over the desert floor in the Alamogordo area. However, there’s nothing like that growing naturally near me. Since we moved out from Boston less than a year ago, we don’t have a lot of experience with yucca care and feeding, and I can’t find anything on the web or in the library that covers the topic. (Lots of talk about what they look like and where they come from, but nothing on "here’s how you take care of one at home".) Can you point me to care information or to a person who is likely to be able to tell me about it?
A. There are many yuccas which may be cultivated. Not all do as well in a given location as others. The one often desired in landscapes is sold as the palm yucca. This has broad leaves and is best adapted to southern New Mexico, though it will grow further north. The soap-tree yucca has narrower leaves and is better adapted into the central part of New Mexico. By virtue of its better adaptation, it is less likely to receive winter injury and is more resistant to certain insect pests. There are even some yuccas which grow north into Montana, though these are not tree form yuccas. There is relatively little printed information regarding yucca cultivation because they are often considered very easy to grow (if the better adapted species are planted), and because there are relatively few garden books printed for the arid west, especially our area. There are a few books. You might wish to check for them in your local library or book store. Of course, your local Cooperative Extension Service office is a source of free information adapted to your area as are many of the local nurseries.
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Fragrant plants 8-03
Q. Are there fragrant plants for xeriscapes?
A. Yes, there are many fragrant plants that are very water efficient. One of my favorites, perfuming my front yard every morning through the summer, is chocolate flower. Its flowers close in the heat of the day, but in the morning the fragrance is very pleasant. Mint, rosemary, thyme, fernbush, and sage (Salvia and Artemisia species) have fragrant foliage that releases their perfumes when bruised (when you brush against them or step on them). They also release fragrance when rain falls on them (or irrigation water falls on them). Little-leaf mockorange and cliff rose are Southwestern native shrubs that are well adapted to our dry environment and produce fragrant flowers. In moderate irrigation zones in the xeriscape, roses grow well and provide their beautiful and fragrant flowers.
These are only a few of the beautiful, fragrant plants that do well in xeric landscapes. Try them and look for others. You won’t be disappointed, and you can create a fragrant demonstration garden to encourage other gardeners who want a fragrant xeriscape.
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Desert gardening classes 9-03
Q. I moved to Albuquerque from the east coast a year ago. After this summer, I believe everyone who says gardening is very different here! How can I learn to garden successfully in Albuquerque? Are there any classes?
A. There are many resources to consider, especially in the Albuquerque area. The Council of Albuquerque Garden Clubs and their affiliated clubs are a good source of information and gardening friends. Some nurseries offer classes. These are announced in the newspaper. The Cooperative Extension Service office is another good source of classes on gardening.
Garden clubs, nurseries, and the Extension Service are resources available in all parts of New Mexico. Since you are in Albuquerque, you have a unique opportunity almost at your doorstep. In Albuquerque there is the Xeriscape Conference, and it is conducted every 18 months. The Xeriscape Conference will be held in October this year. Although registration for the full conference is $100, on Saturday, October 18, there are some free events (trade show and some lectures). You can find information about the conference at http://www.xeriscapenm.com or call (505) 468-1021. People travel from all parts of New Mexico and surrounding states to attend this conference.
There are NMSU Extension Service publications available from your local Cooperative Extension Service office and from the Internet at http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/. Local libraries and bookstores will have books written by Southwestern authors. Public Broadcasting Service (PBS) television stations in New Mexico also broadcast the Southwest Yard and Garden program. This program is produced by the NMSU Cooperative Extension Service to help you garden here. Gardening in the southwest is a challenge for gardeners who have moved to New Mexico. Fortunately, there are many resources available to help you.
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