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Potted PlantsAechmea, flowering
African violets, lifespan
African violets, raising
African violets, starting
Black dots on houseplant leaves
Coffee grounds in pots
Cold damage
Container gardens
Fertilizing in winter
Freeze damage, chile
Fuzzy white bugs on plants
Gift plant with blue & pink flowers
Gnats in houseplants
Houseplant prep for winter
Houseplants, check before bringing in
Houseplants from outdoor cuttings
Houseplants removing air pollutants
Houseplants surviving vacation
Houseplants too large?
Insects on umbrella plant
Jade plant leaves shrivel
Moving plants outside
Mushroom in potted plant
Orchid, pot soil
Patio plants sunburned
Philodendron pot bound
Potted plants, treat for insects
Potting soil, make your own
Removing keiki (baby plant) from orchid
Repotting, when?
Repot in spring
Vertical Gardens
Windowsill herb garden
Windowsill plants
Windowsill winter garden
African violets: how long do they live? 10-00
I am not sure if you are asking me how long an African violet flower lasts, or how long the plant lasts. An individual flower may persist on the plant for several weeks and, in some cases, a month. However, the plant remains in bloom, producing many flowers for months at a time, sometimes years.
The plant itself, if properly cared for, can last many years. It will require repotting periodically. At the time that you repot it, the long stem which develops below the leaves should be buried deeper than before. New roots will form along the stem. It is important to take good care of the plant to maximize its life span. Don’t let it experience cold temperatures. It cannot survive freezing temperatures and can be injured by low temperatures above freezing. The African violet plant must not be allowed to dry too severely, but a little drying is much better than too much water. Especially harmful to the African violet is irregular watering. Don’t alternate between very dry and soggy soil conditions.
Of course, when the plant gets old or is not doing well, it is possible to propagate it from a leaf cutting and produce a new plant exactly like the old plant. Then, although the new plant is not exactly the same plant, it has all the characteristics of the original plant. However, if the plant is patented, it is not legal to vegetatively propagate it in this manner.
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Black dots on houseplants’ leaves 12-01
Q. I have little black dots on the underside of some of my house plants, including the stalks. What could this be and how do I treat it?
A. Are the dots moving? Are they easily smashed? Do they rub off easily? Is there a sticky substance around the drops or on the leaves and stems below? You may be observing insects on your house plants. If they rub off easily and are easily smashed, they may be aphids. These may be washed off the plant by placing them in the sink or bath tub and washing the plants with a strong stream of water. You will need to repeat the process periodically. You can also use insecticidal soap (a safe insecticide for indoor use). Put the plants in the sink or place an old sheet or a plastic sheet under and behind the plant so that the spray will not damage carpet, upholstery, or draperies. If you wish to use other, stronger insecticides, wait for a period of warm days when you can apply the insecticide outside and leave the plants there until the product has dried and there are no objectionable odors.
If the spots don’t rub off or smash, you may have scale insects which are more difficult to treat. However, these may be treated with horticultural oil (more likely to stain fabrics in the house than the insecticidal soaps). Before treating the plants, be certain that the spots are not natural pigmentation. Some plants will produce such spots naturally. When using chemicals for pest management, be sure to read, understand, and follow the directions on the pesticide container.
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Coffee grounds in pots 11-00
Q. Is it safe to put old coffee grounds on my houseplants?
A. It is okay as long as you don't overdo it. In fact, there may be some benefits. However, if you put too many into the pot, there may also be some detriment. There will be some nutrients released as the coffee grounds decompose. This is good, but the decomposition process can cause some problems. As the coffee decomposes, various fungi (which are necessary to decompose the coffee grounds) may increase resulting in disease in the houseplants. The process of decomposition produces heat which may be sufficient to damage or kill the houseplant if there is a thick layer of coffee grounds. In a thick layer, the coffee grounds may become soggy. This sogginess may create an environment conducive to the growth of damaging fungi and bacteria, which may then kill your houseplant. Various organic acids may also be released into the soil creating an unfavorable environment for some plants. Use the coffee grounds sparingly, and be careful with water after application of coffee grounds to the soil. Concerns about increasing acidity will also be eliminated by sparing use of coffee grounds around the plants.
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Cold damage is possible above freezing 10-00
Q. Will a temperature of 33 degrees Fahrenheit hurt any type of common houseplant or outside plants?
A. The answer is yes! Many plants can withstand temperatures below freezing, many can tolerate temperatures near freezing, but some cannot tolerate low temperatures even when the temperature is above freezing. The time the plant must endure the cold temperature is also a consideration. Longer durations at a low temperature will result in more injury.
Many houseplants are from the tropics and very sensitive to low temperatures. As a student, I grew a plant called flame violet (Episcia) that died each year just after the Christmas vacation. When I went to my parents' home during the Christmas holidays, I set the thermostat at 50 degrees in my apartment. Later, after several dead plants, I realized that the low temperature killed my flame violet. By keeping the temperature near 60 degrees, subsequent flame violet plants survived without injury. I believe this is one of the most sensitive plants to "chilling injury" but there are many others, including common garden annual vegetables and flowers, which will also exhibit injury at low temperatures above freezing. I must also ask how you are measuring the temperature. Temperatures measured in one location may vary by several degrees from temperatures in a nearby location. Low temperatures reported by the news or weather service may vary considerably from the temperatures in your garden. If you measured a temperature of 33 degrees or heard it reported on the news, it is very likely that temperatures below freezing existed somewhere in your landscape. If your question is based on the observation of frost damage when your thermometer said it didn't freeze, this is probably the explanation.
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Q. Can I plant a container garden in February?
A. You can certainly plant a container garden in February in any part of New Mexico. You may not be able to keep it outside at this time in much of the state, but you can plant it.
Container gardens are often the best (or only) choice for apartment and townhouse residents, but are very useful for any gardener. Such gardens consist of a single large container or several containers ranging in size from small flower pots to large planter boxes and half barrels. Even gardeners with sufficient outdoor space for a traditional garden may find that container gardening enhances their gardening opportunities.
In the southern part of the state, it will soon be warm enough to plant in the large outdoor containers. In the rest of the state, smaller containers that may be moved indoors on cold days and nights make sense. Until seeds germinate, the containers may be kept indoors in a warm environment that will speed germination.
Cool season flowers and vegetable crops such as calendula, pansy, lettuce, chard, the cole crops and other cold tolerant plants are those to be starting now. However, if you have room indoors for tomatoes, chiles, geraniums and other warm season plants to grow large, they can also be planted now to allow for flowering or harvest beginning in early summer when outdoor plants are just beginning to grow. This gives you a good start with warm season plants before the heat of the summer slows production of tomatoes and other vegetables.
Another advantage of container gardening is that you can tailor the soil to the needs of the crops more easily than in the native New Mexico soil. Most vegetables prefer a slightly acid soil. Our native soils tend to be anywhere from slightly alkaline to very alkaline. Container gardens may be relocated during the growing season to provide additional shade in mid-summer and more light early in the summer and in the fall. This is in addition to the ability to move the garden into the garage or another warm location when frost threatens.
While corn and a few other crops may not be as appropriate for container gardening as traditional outdoor planting, even they can be grown in containers. Many other plants respond very well to the container. This even includes watermelons (the smaller fruited varieties are best) trained to trellises (with the fruit supported in slings tied to the trellis). Bush-type squash, tomatoes, chiles, and almost any vegetable or flower you wish to plant can be grown in a container.
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Freeze damage to chile plant 12-00
Q. We have a chile as a houseplant. The top ¾’s of it got frost-bitten when we briefly placed it outside. Should we prune these apparently dead branches now or wait so see if the leaves will come back?
A. The chile plant may be able to regrow after this injury. It depends on how much damage was done by the cold weather. Since it was outside briefly, and if the temperature was not too cold, there is an excellent chance that only the ends of the branches or perhaps only the leaves were injured. It would be a good idea to wait and see if regrowth occurs. During this time, reduce watering. The fewer leaves the plant has remaining, the less water it will use. If you continue to water normally, there is a chance of causing root rot. As new leaves are formed, begin increasing irrigation frequency. It is good to know that someone else likes to grow chile as a houseplant. Many people think that it is an annual and only lives for the summer. The fact is that it functions as an annual because it freezes outside. In warm climates, or when it is grown indoors, it can live for several years.
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Fuzzy white bugs on houseplants 9-00
Q. Some of my houseplants have small, fuzzy, white things on them. I tried to rub one off, and it had a kind of orange or reddish blood. What is this and is it harmful?
A. From your description I think you have mealy bugs on your houseplants. This is a small insect that feeds by sucking the juices from the plant. Mealy bugs are indeed harmful to your plants. The white, fuzzy, material you described is a covering that the insect produces to protect itself. This insect can rapidly spread from one plant to another, so you might want to discard heavily infested plants or at least remove the most heavily infested plants from the vicinity of other uninfested plants. In many cases it is cheaper and easier to replace plants than to constantly be fighting a well-established insect infestation.
If you choose to fight, you have several options. Since the plants are houseplants and are probably indoors, use a product safe for indoor use. Insecticidal soap should be effective. However, you will need to be vigilant and re-treat several times in quick succession to kill new generations hatching from eggs before they mature and begin to reproduce. If your plants have clasping leaf bases or other hiding places, the insects will continue to reappear. In that case, you may need to use a more toxic insecticide. To use more toxic materials, look for one in the garden center that is labeled to control mealy bugs on the types of plants that you are growing. Follow the directions, and unless it has directions for indoor use, take the plants outside to treat them. Do not return them to the house until the chemical has dried. If an odor persists, you may need to leave it outdoors longer.
While the plant is outdoors, keep it in a shady location and water often enough to prevent the soil from drying. A houseplant suddenly exposed to outdoor conditions is very subject to desiccation, sunburn, and burning by the insecticide. Treat the plants with care. You should still have sufficient time before frost to accomplish this. Later in the fall and winter, special precautions must be taken to prevent freezing injury to the houseplant. Once the plant is returned to the house, watch it carefully for the resurgence of the pest. Subsequent treatments may be necessary.
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Gift plant with blue and pink flowers 10-02
Q. I received a houseplant for a gift. It was called something like Ichmia and has really strange looking but beautiful blue and pink flowers. I’m not sure I can spell it correctly, but I was told that it was related to pineapples. It doesn’t look like any pineapple I’ve ever seen. Can you give me some advice about growing it?
A. It sounds like your gift is Aechmea fasciata. This is a beautiful flowering plant in the Bromeliaceae (pineapple) family. Spanish moss is another member of this family that looks like neither the Aechmea nor the pineapple. It is characteristics of the flowers that result in these plants being in the same family.
The colorful part of your Aechmea is composed of bracts, or modified leaves. That means the plant will remain pretty for a long time. Once the plant finishes flowering and the bracts fade, the whole plant will seem to die. However, there will probably be some small plants, called offsets that develop at the base of the "mother plant." These can be grown to replace the parent and, after becoming large enough, they will also bloom and die. Their offsets will then continue the process.
While the original plant is blooming, water it by putting water in the "well" formed by the tightly grouped leaves. A little water in the soil won’t hurt, but the plant takes most of its water from the foliar well. Don’t give it concentrated fertilizer in the well. A very-much-diluted liquid houseplant fertilizer can be used to water the plant once a month or so. Dilute the liquid fertilizer to about one-fourth the recommended houseplant concentration.
Once the offsets begin forming, water them in the same manner, but be even more careful when fertilizing. As the offsets grow, you can separate them and pot them separately. Don’t cut the stem too closely to the leaves. Cut at the point where the offsets join the parent plant.
Do not let your Aechmea experience temperatures below about 45 degrees. This is a tropical plant, which prefers warm, humid conditions. Even a brief exposure to freezing temperatures can result in the death of the plant. It may help to know that in its native habitat, the Aechmea is an epiphyte that grows on the bark of trees rather than in the soil. The roots serve to anchor it to the bark of these trees, and that is why they are not important for collecting water for the plant.
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Gnats in houseplants 8-02
Q. Every year I seem to get gnats in my houseplants and they are driving me crazy. I have tried many "recipes" to get rid of them but to no avail. Do you have suggestions?
A. You probably have fungus gnats inhabiting the soil of your potted plants. The larvae may feed on the roots of potted plants, stunting the growth of the plants. It is the adult gnat that you are probably seeing. These small insects are a nuisance but do not do as much damage as their larvae.
Cultural practices that reduce the population of fungus gnats include letting the surface soil of potted plants dry between waterings and repotting in a well-drained potting soil that does not stay moist for a long period of time. Potting soils should be pasteurized (treated to kill detrimental insects, diseases, and weed seeds). These practices reduce the population of the larvae in the soil.
To reduce the number of adult fungus gnats in the home, you can use "yellow sticky traps". The gnats are attracted to the yellow color and become stuck in the sticky material removing them as nuisances from the home environment.
A natural toxin produced by Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israeliensis is effective in controlling fungus gnats. It is sold under the name Gnatrol®. This product may be used to drench the soil, killing many of the larvae.
A combination of treatments will probably be most successful. When you use a chemical means of controlling fungus gnats, it is important to read, understand, and follow the label directions.
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Houseplant prep for winter 9-02
Q. Is it too early to worry about bringing plants indoors for the winter?
A. Now is the time to begin preparing to bring plants indoors for the winter. I wouldn’t call it worrying, however. Begin inspecting plants for signs of disease or insects. If there are problems, you have time to begin treating with whatever means you choose, depending on the problem. In some cases, it may be best not to bring infested plants indoors. Once indoors, pests and diseases may become very difficult to control and begin spreading to other, otherwise healthy plants. Prevention is the best choice.
Now is also a good time to begin propagating overgrown plants so that the space required during the winter is minimized. Many houseplants are easily propagated by means of cuttings to produce smaller plants. Some plants, such as begonias and impatiens, may be propagated by simply putting cuttings into a glass of water until roots form. The cuttings of other plants should be started in potting soil. But, now is the time to begin the process.
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Houseplants: check before bringing them indoors 11-99
Q. As I bring in my houseplants from outside for the winter, what should I do to be certain that they are healthy?
A. The first thing to do is carefully inspect the plants before you bring them indoors. Look for insects and diseases as well as their signs and symptoms. Signs of insects and diseases are the direct evidence of their presence, the insect itself, their eggs, their shed skins, signs of feeding, or the fruiting structures of fungi. The symptoms are the response of the plant to the pests. Plants will exhibit color changes in response to some pests, leaves may curl, and there may be discolored or dead patches on the leaves or stems. If the evidences of insect or disease problems are present, then you will need to identify the problem and the organism responsible so that an appropriate course of action may be taken to alleviate the problem. If the problem is disease, spraying an insecticide will not be effective. If it is a disease or insect, you must determine which specific disease organism or insect is responsible. This is necessary to choose the safest, most effective means of dealing with the problem.
There are books which may give you an idea of which pest or disease is present. You may also take samples of the plant with the insect, or signs and symptoms, to your local nursery or local Cooperative Extension Service office to have a professional help identify the problem. Many counties also have Master Gardener programs in which there are trained volunteers, experienced gardeners in your area, who help the Extension Service and will also help confirm the diagnosis. These professionals or volunteers will also be able to recommend one or more methods of treating the problem. Information in books relating to chemical treatment methods should be confirmed by Extension or nursery personnel. This is because the chemicals, organic and synthetic, used to treat insects and diseases and the laws regulating their use are subject to frequent change. You should also consult the label on the container of any product you have selected (before purchasing it) to confirm the product is labeled to treat the identified problem and to confirm that it may be used on the plants that you possess and in the environment where you plan to use it (indoors or outdoors).
It is best to treat the plants outdoors a few days before bringing them indoors. This allows time for the product to dry and any odors to diminish before bringing the plant indoors. Some insect and disease control products are not labeled for use indoors so, for your personal safety, they should be applied outside. Besides, it is easier to apply pest and disease control products outside where there are no carpets, curtains, furnishings, or other things which may be stained or damaged by the product.
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Houseplants from outdoor cuttings
Q. I heard it was possible to save plants from the flower bed over the winter to use as houseplants and then plant outside next year. I have some beautiful impatiens and begonias. What is the best way to start new plants? What is the best time to start new houseplants?
A. It is a little early in most of New Mexico, but if you are thinking about it now, this is a perfect time. Starting them now will result in larger plants by the time the outdoor garden freezes. These larger plants will require more space indoors but will give you more flowers in the fall and early winter. Whether or not you have flowers later depends on the light intensity and cultural conditions inside. These plants that you mentioned are quite easy to start from cuttings. Just remove a three-to-four inch piece of the end of one of the stems, carefully break the leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the plant or trim them off with a sharp knife.
These prepared cuttings may be rooted in water or in good, sterile (pasteurized), potting soil. To root them in water, just place them in water up to the point just below the remaining leaves. For this you may use a vase, a drinking glass, or an old jelly jar. As the water evaporates, refill the container. Once every week or so, replace the water so that the mineral salt in the water doesn't accumulate as the water evaporates. This is especially important because of the hardness of most of our New Mexico water sources. DO NOT use water from water softeners, which replace the hard water minerals with other minerals that may be even more toxic to the plants. Once roots have formed and are beginning to grow you may place the rooted cuttings in a pot with good potting soil, or for fun you can leave them in the water container.
Until the roots have formed, there is no need to add fertilizer. However, once the roots form you can begin fertilizing with a diluted flowering houseplant fertilizer. This is true whether you are growing them in soil or in water. Wait a week of so for the roots to establish in the soil before fertilizing. This fertilizer is necessary for the vigorous growth of these new plants in the confined root environment in which you are maintaining them. You may also place the prepared cuttings directly into the sterile potting soil. For these plants, use of a root stimulating hormone powder is not necessary, but it does speed the formation of the roots. For some more difficult to root cuttings, the root hormone powders will not be optional. These powders are not useful if you root the cuttings in water. Dip the cut end of the prepared cutting into the rooting powder, then gently tap off any excess powder. Carefully insert the cutting into preexisting holes in the potting soil. The preexistence of the holes is necessary so that the rooting powder isn't rubbed off. In a couple of weeks new roots should have formed on your new house plants. As described with the water rooted cuttings, you may then begin fertilizing with a diluted flowering houseplant fertilizer.
Place the plants in a well-lighted location. Group plants together so that the humidity in the vicinity will be increased. Under good conditions, they should begin blooming in a month or so and continue through the winter. In the late winter you may again begin taking cuttings to produce new plants for use outside. Also consider buying new plants so that you may get new colors of flowers for your landscape and for your interiorscape as you make cuttings next autumn.
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Houseplants removing air pollutants 9-02
Q. Do you have a list of houseplants that produce the most oxygen and are the best plants for improving the indoor air?
A. It is difficult to answer your question regarding oxygen. The answer will be dependent on the health of the plant, its size, and the light levels where it is growing. In general, more light means more photosynthesis and more oxygen production. However, some plants such as tropical foliage plants are better adapted to low light conditions and therefore best for increasing indoor oxygen levels. Plants not as well adapted to shade will tend to deplete the oxygen because they will be respiring (releasing carbon dioxide) as well as photosynthesizing (producing oxygen).
Whether or not they are net producers or consumers depends on the light level and shade adaptability of the plants. If the light conditions are very low, philodendron and other plants like it will produce more oxygen. In brighter light, other plants will do better. Most home conditions are such that the period of bright light is very limited, thus limiting maximum photosynthesis. Your question is difficult to answer without knowing your light conditions - intensity and duration.
It is easier to answer the question about general indoor air quality. About 20 years ago, NASA published some research identifying which plants are best at removing pollutants from the air. Even here, the best plant varied depending on what pollutant was of concern. Spiderplant (genus Chlorophytum) was best at removing gaseous pollutants such as formaldehyde. Plants with fuzzy leaves were best at removing particulate pollutants such as smoke and grease particles.
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Houseplants surviving vacation
Q. We will be visiting our children and grandchildren for the holidays and will be away for about two weeks. How can I be sure that my houseplants survive our absence? I have never had much luck asking someone to come to my home to care for the plants.
A. It is difficult to get someone to care for your plants like you do. For long periods of time, that is the only option, but there may be some loss of plants.
Another option is to minimize the needs of the plants while you are gone. The primary need in a two-week period is water. There are several things you can do to reduce the water needs or to extend the water supply during this time.
By lowering the temperature in your home while you are away, the plants will use less water. Most plants can tolerate temperatures as low as 50 to 55 degrees for this time. Lower temperatures reduce plant water use and will extend the time between irrigations. You can also remove plants from direct sunlight, placing them in locations that have bright light but not direct sunlight. Sheer curtains will help diffuse the light as well as provide increased security for your home. The plants need some light, but lower light coupled with lower temperatures will allow the plants to survive your travels.
There are ceramic slow watering devices to attach to plastic bottles filled with water. The ceramic portion is buried in the soil to slowly moisten the soil. (The plastic bottle should be upside down above the ceramic watering device.) This further extends the time the plant can survive your absence.
Rather than the slow watering device, you can also place the plants inside loosely closed plastic bags that will serve as greenhouses to reduce water loss. If the bags are tightly sealed, fungal problems may develop; however, a few holes punched in the bags will allow for air exchange and reduce the chance of fungus. Clear plastic bags should be kept away from direct sunlight. White plastic bags may be closer to the windows since they will reflect surplus light and not overheat.
While these techniques may not save every plant, they increase the chances for their survival without the need for a surrogate gardener during your absence. Have a safe trip.
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Houseplants too large? 9-00
Q. Some of my house plants have gotten too large. Now I just don't have room for them. Can I prune them back to make them fit in my windows?
A. Some potted plants may be pruned back, others may be propagated to produce new and smaller plants, and in some cases it may be better to buy plants which fit your space.
You will need to look at each plant to decide which is the best procedure for the plant and for your conditions. Plants like African violets (except the patented varieties) may be propagated by leaf cuttings. Geraniums, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema, and many others may be propagated by stem cuttings. Palms and many other plants may be propagated by the offsets, small plants produced at the base of the parent plant. There should be some good books on house plants and plant propagation in your local library. These will advise you on specific techniques for each type of plant.
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Mushroom growing in potted plant
Q. I reviewed your responses to the various questions on garden tips on the Internet regarding mushroom growth in gardens/lawns.I have the same problem; however, my mushroom growth is not in a garden or lawn. It is in a spider plant in my small apartment. I live in a high rise building, so I wouldn't think that spores would travel from the outside to the 11th floor, but I could be wrong. My plant is rather new, growing beautifully from a "baby" pulled from the mother plant. I am afraid that this is damaging my plant and I don't want it ruined. Also, is this a hazard to my health being exposed to the fungus and its spores? I am very concerned. Please help.
A. Many potting soils are made from composted organic matter. The composting process uses fungi to convert the original waste organic matter into compost. The mushroom you see is the "fruiting structure" of the fungus - it produces the spores that allow the fungus to reproduce.
There may be some live fungi or fungal spores remaining in the compost. This is the source of the mushroom in the potting soil. These fungi are usually not harmful to healthy plants if the compost was produced in a proper manner.
It is possible that the fungal spores have come from another source. They may have come from other potted plants in your home. Since the spores are very light, they can travel in the wind to many thousands of feet in altitude and hundreds of miles from their source.
It is unlikely that your plant will be harmed, but it may benefit from the presence of the fungus. The fungi will release nutrients as they continue the breakdown of organic matter in the potting soil. If you wish to remove the mushroom from the pot, that is okay; however, the fungus in the soil that produced the mushroom will remain.
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Insects on umbrella plant
Q. I have an umbrella plant with what I think is an infectious disease.
The leaves are coated with a very sticky substance, and this "sap" drops on
the floor and makes the floor sticky. The plant is losing its leaves after
they turn yellow. I had this problem earlier in the year with an ivy plant, but I
thought my daughter had spilled soda pop on it because it was sticky. This
plant eventually dried up and died. Is this some form of fungus? I can't see any fungal growth or insects. I hope to save the plant because it is at least 30 years old and was a 'pet' belonging to my late mother. Can you offer any suggestions?
A. It is probable that there is an insect causing what you have
described. The sign of their presence is the sticky substance called
honeydew. Honeydew is a sugary, syrupy substance excreted by the insects
after consuming sap from the plant.
There are several insects that excrete honeydew. The most common of
these are aphids, mealy bugs, and scale insects. Of these three, the scale
insect is most difficult to see because it covers itself with a (usually)
brown waxy covering so it looks like a bump on a stem or a small brown bump
on the bottom of a leaf. It betrays its presence by the honeydew that
collects on surfaces below the place where it is feeding on the plant.
Scale can be difficult to eradicate. If the infestation is too great, it is often best to dispose of the plant to protect nearby plants. However, as you described, your umbrella plant has sentimental value to you and is worth saving.
Isolate it from other plants to reduce the chances that the scale
insect will infest other plants. When caring for the plants, go to the
umbrella plant last so the insect will not spread on your hands, clothing,
or houseplant implements. You can treat with chemical insecticides
(organic/low toxicity or commercial insecticides). Try using the least
toxic means of treatment at first, especially since you will be treating
the plant indoors during the winter. You can use horticultural oil or
insecticidal soap applied to the under surface of leaves and stems where
the scale insects (brown bumps) are located. Apply the oil with a cotton
ball or cotton swab. With gentle rubbing, the scale insect may be removed
along with any eggs or scale offspring under or nearby the larger parent
scale. Some people use rubbing alcohol, but this only allow physical
removal. Horticultural oil and insecticidal soap have insecticidal
properties and will kill some of the insects that remain. Horticultural
oil and insecticidal soap are labeled for control of insects and provide
directions on their label for treating houseplant insects.
There are also systemic insecticides that may be applied to the
plants, but these should be applied when the weather is warmer and the
umbrella plant can be taken outside without fear of cold damage. The
systemic insecticides have the advantage because the chemicals will enter
the phloem of the plant that carries the sap on which these insects feed.
Whenever using chemicals (including the insecticidal soap and
horticultural oil) read and follow the label directions. If you do not
understand the directions, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service
agent for assistance.
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Jade plant leaves shriveling 12-01
Q. My jade plant’s leaves are shriveling. I recently repotted it into a pretty glazed pot without drainage holes. I’m sure I’m watering it enough. What’s wrong?
A. It is likely that the pot with drainage is the problem. If you are watering frequently, you may have a waterlogged condition in the soil in the pot. Jade plants can tolerate drying, but not waterlogging. The roots may be rotting. You may be able to save the plant by removing it from the pot, removing much of the old potting soil, and repotting in a very-well-drained potting soil in a pot with drainage. Take care not to overwater the jade plant, and it should develop healthy roots.
If you want to use the pot without drainage, put some coarse gravel or a piece of broken brick in the bottom and place a plant in a pot with drainage into this "jardiniere." The gravel or brick will keep the base of the interior pot from being immersed in the water. If the water level in the pot gets too high, you can remove the water in the undrained pot. Another option is to use the pretty glazed pot with colorful silk plants or dried flower arrangements. You can easily change the appearance of such a display.
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Making potting soil 1-02
Q. Can I make my own potting soil by taking soil from the garden?
A. Garden soil works best in the garden but can be used in potting soil. In the confined environment of a pot, addition of certain amendments is helpful. Compost, peat, or other organic matter is a good addition to garden soil. If the garden soil is quite sandy, organic matter may be all that is required. If the garden soil has a lot of clay, perhaps some coarser material such as coarse sand or aquarium gravel should be added, depending on the plants to be grown.
Another consideration is the presence of fungi and bacteria in all garden soils. In the confined environment of a pot, these are more likely to damage plants. You can pasteurize the soil by heating it to a temperature of 160 degrees for 30 minutes. Heated soil does not smell good, so if you can pasteurize the soil outside, it is advisable. You can use a portable oven or barbecue for outdoor soil pasteurization.
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Moving Houseplants Outside
Q. When will it be safe to move houseplants outdoors for the summer?
A. Don't move plants outdoors permanently until the chance of frost has passed. Plants that have been kept warm indoors will be susceptible to frost damage. However, there are some exceptions to the "wait till chance of frost" rule.
Plants can be moved outdoors into a protected microclimate earlier. Some areas, especially on a porch on the south side of a house will stay several degrees warmer than a location in the open. In this location frost damage will be much less likely, but slow acclimation to the light intensity may be necessary. Plants grown indoors often develop shade leaves that cannot tolerate direct sunlight. Plants should be in a shadier location on the protected porch at first. They should initially be given only brief periods of direct sunlight. As time passes, the duration of direct sunlight can increase if the plants are those plants that can tolerate full sunlight.
Another option is using the protected microclimate on an in-and-out basis. On warm days (and during nights above freezing) plants can be taken outside at any time of the year. Once again, care must be taken not to subject them to too much direct sunlight. Since they will be going back inside, they will not be acclimating to the sunlight. Place them in locations with light levels similar to or slightly brighter that the light levels at their indoor location.
Remember, plants outside may dry more quickly than indoor plants if the day is windy. Water as needed to keep them from drying more that the particular type of plant can tolerate.
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Orchids and potting soil 2-01
Q. I have a Dendrobium orchid which is potted with bark. When the time comes, should I replace with bark or potting soil, or does it matter? Is Miracle Grow okay to use to fertilize?
A. The Dendrobium and many other orchids grow naturally on the bark of trees. These "epiphytic orchids" need very good drainage. That is why they are grown in the bark instead of soil. When repotting, use fresh bark (sold in garden stores for growing orchids) or a similar potting medium. Some people add lava rock to help increase drainage. Potting soil is not recommended for this type of orchid, but I have seen people succeed with potting soil. It is much easier for root rot to develop in potting soils which do not drain as readily. You might want to find an orchid society in your area and benefit from advice from orchid growers familiar with your local conditions. A members of an orchid society should be able to look at your plant to determine which Dendrobium it is, and then give advice based on that. Regarding fertilizers, Miracle Grow™ is okay, as are many other houseplant fertilizers. Don’t overfertilize. Too much nitrogen fertilizer will speed the decomposition of the bark and development of toxic compounds which can injure your orchid.
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Patio plants sunburned 8-01
Q. I recently landscaped my townhouse courtyard with pots of Pretoria Canna and Big Leaf Philodendrons. They were full, beautiful and blooming. I have no patio cover and the pots sit on Saltio tile because there is no dirt. I think the tile draws heat to the plants. I have sprayed them daily and watered them enough to keep moist. The leaves on the plants look burned, and the plants are not producing any new leaves. What do I need to do before I lose them completely?
A. The plants that you described are from understory locations in the tropics; that is, they are adapted to shade and have a really tough time with direct sun, especially in the Southwest United States. The heat does complicate things but is not the primary problem. The leaves are just sunburning. The solution is shade. Some trellises placed in five gallon buckets or large flower pots and positioned to shade the plants, especially from mid-day until late afternoon, will help. The trellises alone may make enough shade, but vines planted on them will help more. Be sure to choose vines adapted to full sunlight locations, or for immediate benefit use artificial plants on the trellises this year. Continue to provide adequate water and moisten the tiles during the day as you have been doing. The damaged leaves will not recover, but the plants should produce new leaves if they are not too severely damaged.
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Philodendron pot-bound 7-00
Q. I haven’t had any luck finding the answer to my question in any of my garden/plant books and figured you could help me. I just bought a lovely philodendron - the type with the large, deep-toothed leaves that stand upright (not a climber) - and it seems like the pot is a little too small for the size of the plant. It is over two-feet tall. However, is this one of those plants that like to be root-bound?
A. The philodendron you described, and many others, are quite capable of growing in amazingly small containers. Actually, this is true of many plants as long as their needs in the way of water and nutrients are met. In a small pot, you must water more frequently and fertilize regularly. I have seen philodendrons grown so long in small containers that the root mass inside the pot became large enough and exerted enough force on the pot to break the pot. Just because the plant will grow in a very small pot doesn’t mean that you must grow it in such a small pot. Moving it to a larger pot will probably allow it to grow more rapidly. Please remember to water less often in a larger pot because the ratio of roots to soil (and water) is much less in the larger pot (until the roots again overfill the pot). Those plants that do best when pot-bound are often flowering plants. Some of these will spend more time growing in oversized pots, but in undersized pots their growth is limited and their flowering is enhanced. The philodendron is grown for its foliage, not its flowers, so pot size is not a primary consideration in the case of philodendrons.
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Raising African violets 7-02
Q. Can you direct me to a good source for information on raising African violets?
A. Perhaps the best source of information regarding raising African violets would be a local gardener who grows them. In many cities there are garden clubs devoted to African violets, or orchids, or bonsai. Such a garden club is not only a good source of information but also a good source for healthy plants.
I learned how to grow African violets and many other plants from books borrowed from a library. Libraries or bookstores are often the next best sources of information on something as specific as African violets. There are many books to choose from, but choosing a book is something best for you to determine. Look for a book that is written in a manner that is easy for you to understand. If pictures are helpful, look for that; if you don’t need pictures, then choose one without pictures.
Finally, African violets are very easy to grow, just don’t overwater them or let them get too dry. Give them enough bright light, but not direct sunlight. Choose several varieties to grow because some grow better in different environments. Each home environment is different, so by trying several varieties you may select those that grow best for you. They are really great plants.
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Removing keiki (baby plant) from orchid
Q. I have a dendrobium orchid which has produced a keiki on one of the stems. How does one remove the keiki? It is well attached, and I'm afraid of injuring the main stem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A. A dendrobium orchid is one which is likely to produce a keiki (baby plant) from a bud on the stem. Once roots have formed, this new plant may be removed by carefully cutting between the new plant and the stem on which it formed, using a sharp knife. The roots on the keiki will be brittle, so be very careful not to injure them. The old stem on which the keiki was produced may be declining and may not last many more years but, if you are careful as you cut, you can minimize damage to the stem so it may live longer, perhaps producing other keikis or flowers.
If few roots have formed at the base of the keiki, you can help the root development process by wrapping some sphagnum moss around the stem at the base of the keiki and keeping the sphagnum moist. This will encourage root growth. This is not essential if roots are already forming. In that case, you can remove the new plant and pot it in orchid potting "bark" or other potting medium made for orchids. Keep this moist, but don't overwater. If possible, remove the plant and pot it when you see new roots developing from the base of the plant. These new little roots are less likely to be damaged during the removal process and will grow to replace any that were damaged as the keiki was removed.
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Repot in the spring
Q. Now that the weather is warmer, I want to take my houseplants outside. Should I repot them now or later?
A. Now is a good time to repot houseplants. Some people recommend repotting every spring. If the plants are flowering now and you anticipate a break in the flowering, you may wait until flowering ends.
I admit that I do not repot my plants every year but that is because I try to grow too many plants, and by repotting they grow faster and exceed the space I have for them inside. Repotting will result in more and healthier growth and also more flowers.
Some people are reluctant to repot because they fear damaging the plants. There are several tricks to employ. You may partially replace the potting soil. This is done by carefully teasing some of the soil away from the roots and replacing it with new potting soil. If the plant is not pot-bound (roots which are tightly wrapped around the edge of the pot and filling the soil ball completely), you can try partial replacement of the potting soil. This does not solve salt accumulation problems, so it may not be appropriate for many New Mexico gardeners.
Complete repotting involves removing the plant from its pot and removing much of the old soil from the roots. The soil can be removed by carefully teasing the soil out with chopsticks or a knitting needle. You can also wash much of the soil from the roots with a stream of water. This helps prevent drying of roots. After soil removal, the plant can be placed in a pot one size larger than the old pot (to allow for growth) and new potting soil worked in around the roots. This will replace old salt-laden soil and help avoid salt burn damage in the houseplants. Replacing soil in the spring reduces the risk of salt burn damage in the heat of summer.
Some people try to reuse their old potting soil. This is not a good idea because diseases and salts accumulated in the soil will remain. Fresh, high quality potting soil will produce healthier, more attractive plants.
Choose a potting soil appropriate for the plant. Cacti and succulents are better adapted to a very well-drained potting soil. Look for a potting soil with coarse sand or very fine gravel included. Perlite added to potting soil increases the drainage and air space in the soil that these plants require. Some tropical foliage plants require a soil that remains constantly moist. Choose a potting soil with a high level of compost or peat moss to provide the extra water holding capacity.
Many purchased potting soils contain slow release fertilizers. The presence of fertilizer will be noted on the label on the potting soil. Be sure the fertilizer's nutrient analysis is appropriate for the type of plant you will grow. High nitrogen fertilizers encourage growth of foliage. This is what you want for foliage plants. Flowering plants require higher levels of phosphate. If the potting soil does not have fertilizer already mixed into it, you can use a liquid fertilizer occasionally as you water the plants after repotting. Choose the fertilizer with the analysis appropriate for the plant you are growing and follow the label direction for potted plants.
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Starting African violets
Q. A friend gave me a leaf from one of her beautiful African violets and told me how to grow new plants from it. Is this a good time?
A. Yes, leaf-petiole cuttings from African violets can be started almost anytime. It is important to keep them in a well-lighted room but not in direct sunlight. The room should be comfortably warm. If it is warm enough for you to be comfortable, the cutting should root readily. For those who don't know how to start an African violet from a leaf-petiole cutting, it is very easy. The simplest method is to place the petiole (stem) portion into a small glass of water with the leaf blade remaining in the air. In a few weeks roots will have developed and a few weeks after that small plantlets will appear at the end of the petiole. Leaves will form underwater and when the plantlets have several leaves about one-fourth-inch across or more, the little plants may be separated and placed in pots in good African violet potting soil. It would be wise to place plastic bags over these pots for a while so that our dry air doesn't kill them before they can develop strong root systems in the pots. Gradually punch holes in the bag after a couple of weeks, each week adding more holes until the plants are adapted to the drier air. Of course, while the pots are in the plastic bags, keep them in a brightly lit location, but don't allow them to be in direct sunlight or the heat will kill your little plants.
For those who want a simpler way to start the plants, just place the petiole of the leaf into moist potting soil in a pot. Keep the potting soil moist and perhaps start with the pot and leaf in a plastic bag. As the little plants develop, begin punching holes in the bag as described above. In a few months you will have a nice new African violet. Before you start a new plant, be sure to check the label that came with the plant to see if it is patented. If it is patented, it is illegal to start new plants until the patent expires.
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Treat potted plants for insects – then bring them inside
Q. Now that it is getting cooler I began to bring my houseplants back inside. Many of them have insects on them. I don't want to spray insecticides inside. What can I do?
A. It is a good idea to begin inspecting and treating houseplants a month or more before you bring them in from their summer outside. Often insect infestations are minimal in these outside plants because natural predators and parasites keep them in check. Once they come inside and are away from the natural agents which have been controlling them, their populations can explode and your plants can look pretty bad. Inside they can spread through a collection of plants rapidly. While the plants are outside, you have a greater variety of treatment methods from which to choose. You can use appropriate chemical control measures, both organic and synthetic products. Once the plants are back indoors, your treatment options are more limited. There are pest control products labeled for indoor use, but the variety is less. If you have a severe infestation and cannot find an appropriate indoor use insecticide, you may be able to take the plants outside on a warm day to spray them. If the forecast is for a prolonged warm spell, which is common at this time of year, leave the plants outside for several days before returning them to their window location. Once the weather gets colder, you may not be able take the plants outside and will be limited to methods appropriate for use inside.
Insecticidal soaps are generally safe for both the plant and people. They may be applied to the plant on the windowsill. If you do not want to risk getting the soap spray on the window or surrounding curtains and furnishings, you can move the plants to the bathtub for treatment. For plants which may be injured by soap sprays spraying with a forceful water spray while in the bath tub may be sufficient to physically remove the insects from the plants. Constant vigilance is necessary while the plants are indoors so that you may treat problems before they become too severe to be treated and before they spread.
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Vertical garden watermelon on trellis
Q. I read what you wrote about container gardens and was intrigued by your statement that watermelons could be grown on a trellis. I live in a townhouse, and while I have a small space for a garden, I didn't think I could grow large, sprawling plants like watermelons. Does this work with other plants as well? How do you make a "sling" to hold the fruit?
A. Gardeners with limited garden space, whether a small townhouse garden or a container garden, find it useful to use "vertical space" - they train normally sprawling plants to grow upward. This leaves the soil and walkway surfaces clear. It does create a problem when the plant makes heavy fruit. The solution to the problem is to support the heave fruits so they do not break the vines. Watermelons (the small fruited icebox varieties) can be grown to utilize the vertical space in a garden. Cantaloupes, honeydew melons, and even vine-type squash and small-fruited pumpkins can also be grown in this manner.
The sling is simply a piece of fabric (old t-shirt or pantyhose) that supports the fruit and is itself tied to a firmly supported trellis. A stretchy fabric will allow growth of the fruit while firmly holding the fruit. Any other fabric from burlap to muslin (or other available fabric) may be used and formed into a sling such as that worn by a person with a broken arm. This is tied at each end to the trellis.
The trellis should not be just a simple trellis pushed into a pot. It must be firmly anchored to the ground or supported by placing its base into a large bucket of concrete. If using the bucket of concrete, make sure it is quite wide to provide a broad, stable base. The trellis may also be made from stout wires anchored into the garden wall. You can design something that is purely functional or something that becomes an attractive architectural element in the landscape, perhaps even forming an arched trellis under which you sit.
The use of vertical space allows for increased shade in a small garden, which can sometimes be very hot. It must not compete with trees but in some cases can replace small trees and shrubs in the small garden. In the winter, the vines may be removed allowing increased sunlight to warm the garden.
The shade created by the vertical garden can benefit other plants growing below the taller plants. If the shade is not too dense, sunscald damage to tomatoes and chiles will be reduced. Blossom end rot may also be reduced as the temperature and wind desiccation under the taller plants will be reduced. There will be additional space for other plants, either vegetables or flowers.
Don't waste the vertical space, especially if your garden is small.
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What are good windowsill plants?
Q. What are good plants for a windowsill garden?
A. There are many plants that do well on windowsills. Herbs are a good plant for the window garden. They can be attractive, fragrant when brushed, and useful in cooking. Some even have attractive flowers. Chives, bunching onions, basil, marjoram, oregano, cilantro and many other herbs are good choices. There is no shortage of flowering plants for the windowsill. African violets, geraniums (especially the scented geraniums), begonias, impatiens, and even some orchids do well on the windowsill. Vegetables are somewhat more difficult to grow in the window, but recently nurseries have begun offering miniature vegetables for the window gardener. There are mini-tomatoes and eggplants which will produce edible fruit and are also attractive. Miniature lettuces and carrots may also be grown in the window. Check your local nursery and favorite gardening catalogs to find the plants that you will most enjoy growing.
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Window garden in winter
Q. I hate the end of the garden season. It seems things just get started, then winter comes and ends it all. What are some good plants for window gardening here in New Mexico? I just have to keep gardening.
A. What plants do you like? There are many plants which may be grown indoors through the winter. One of my favorites is a four-year-old chile plant. In the winter I keep it in a brightly lighted, cool room. In the summer the plant and its pot enjoy the shade of an apple tree. It continues to bear chile pods each year, even producing some in the winter. Amaryllis, orchids, begonias, eraniums, ferns, coleus, spider plants, peperomias, aloes, and many other plants can be grown as indoor ornamentals.
However, I like to grow a lot of edible plants which are also ornamental. Oregano, chives, garlic chives, bunching onions, thyme, rosemary, basil, and other herbs are some of my favorites for the winter window garden. I like the fact that I can prune them back to keep them from becoming too large, and then use the trimmings to make a meal more flavorful. Just the process of trimming them is pleasant because I like the aroma of these plants. Of course you can't forget the Christmas cactus and poinsettia as indoor plants. The challenge of getting them to bloom for the holidays makes growing them a great deal of fun.
For those who are forgetful or just too busy to remember the indoor garden, cacti and succulents are good choices. The challenge in growing them is to avoid over-watering. In the winter, especially if you keep the plants in a cool room, the plants need less water than in the summer. This is true of all the plants discussed here. In a well-heated room, more watering will be needed. Miniature roses, while tempting to try, need a cool period to maintain their health. They may be brought indoors to complete their fall bloom or left out in a protected but cold location, then brought in to induce early spring bloom. Other plants native to temperate climates will also have a need for a cool resting time. Tropical plants, on the other hand, do not like the cold and will grow right through the winter.
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Windowsill herb garden 9-01
Q. What should I do to grow some culinary herbs on my windowsill during the winter?
A. You should carefully choose the plants you will grow based on the size and location of the windowsill and the herbs that you will find useful. Chives and bunching onions are easy to grow on a windowsill. Only a little of these herbs goes a long ways in cooking, but that is true of most herbs. They will do best in a south-facing window, but east-facing or west-facing will also work.
I have successfully grown basil through the winter in a south-facing window, though many books say that they don't make good windowsill plants. Rosemary, thyme, and many other common herbs may also be grown in a windowsill. Carefully inspect the plants for insect infestation before bringing the plants indoors. It is a good idea to grow them outside a while after purchasing the plants to allow insect eggs to hatch before the plants are brought indoors. Watch for any symptoms of disease. Insects and diseases are much easier to treat outside, especially if chemical pesticides are needed. Be careful to choose pest control products that will not leave a residue on the leaves that you will be eating later in the winter. It is also possible to start many herbs from seed, but don't let plants brought in from outdoors infest them. Once the plants are indoors, water carefully. As the weather changes and the furnace runs more, the plants will dry more rapidly. Windowsill herbs are an easy way to continue gardening in the winter and to enhance the flavor of your meals.
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Winter protection for tender plants 12-01
Q. We corresponded a little last summer regarding the tropical plants in my townhouse courtyard in Phoenix, AZ. You may recall that I was having problems with the leaves burning because the Saltillo tile drew heat into the courtyard and there was little or no shade. I took your advice and they survived. Now my problem is the cold. Because the plants are surrounded on all sides by either block walls or wood and because they sit on the tile, the area is very cold. We will have some temperatures below freezing this winter, and I don’t know what to do to keep them safe.
A. The safest course of action is to bring the plants indoors when freezing weather is likely. If this lasts for only a few days, the plants will not be harmed if they are kept in a dark room. If a prolonged stay indoors is necessary, place them in a brightly lit room, preferably near east- or south-facing windows. It is okay to return the plants outside when the days are warm, but bring them indoors if the nights will freeze. To make it easier to move the plants, larger potted plants may be placed on platforms with casters allowing them to be rolled in and out. This may also work for collections of smaller potted plants, reducing the number of in and out trips to move your plants. Remember to water the plants as they dry more quickly in the drier indoor environment.
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Fertilizing houseplants in the winter 1-03
Q. Should I fertilize my houseplants during the winter?
A. If your plants are receiving sufficient light and the location will allow for growth, you can fertilize your houseplants. Choose the type of fertilizer based on the type of plant. Plants grown for their foliage need fertilizer higher in nitrogen while flowering plants need more phosphorus. Read the label on the fertilizer container to determine which nutrients are available and their relative proportions.
If your plants are becoming leggy because of low light and high temperatures, fertilization may increase the problem. If the space is limited, encouraging growth by fertilization will definitely add to the problem. Based on the type and needs of the plant, and also the growing conditions, you can determine whether fertilization is right for your houseplants.
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Aechmea, flowering 1-03
Q. We purchased an Aechmea Fasceate last year in March when it was in bloom. It flowered for about 2-3 months and then the flower died. Does this plant flower again or will only the offspring from the plant flower?
A. The Aechmea will not flower from the old "parent" plant. Allow it to dieback naturally as it nurtures the offset (new plant). One or more offsets should form from the base. (Your question suggests that your plant has formed at least one offset.) When the offset matures, it will flower and then the plant will die, but it should also form offsets to replace it.
You can leave the offset attached to the parent plant, or you can remove it from the parent plant after it has begun to develop its own roots. When you divide the offset from the parent plant, pot it in a well-drained potting soil. The Aechmea uses its roots primarily to hold it upright and derives most of its water and nutrition by absorbing them from water trapped in the "well" formed by its tightly wrapped leaf bases. It is important to keep water in this well and add a very diluted fertilizer solution once a month or so. Don't over-fertilize. When adding fertilizer, make the fertilizer solution at about one-fourth the recommended concentration for potted plants.
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When to repot 7-03
Q. How can I tell when it is time to repot my houseplants?
A. There are several reasons to repot houseplants. When plants become pot-bound (when the roots completely fill the pot), the plant may begin to grow less and may flower less. Some plants actually flower better when their roots are pot-bound. A plant which has outgrown the pot may need repotting; you will need to determine the need based on the plants condition.
Many potting soils contain compost, peat, or other organic matter that decomposes over time. This may result in the production of chemicals toxic to the plants or a change in the drainage characteristics of the soil. When this happens, the plant may wilt or develop root rot. Repotting should be done before the plant dies. To catch this problem early, periodically check the roots by gently removing the root ball from the pot and looking for fresh white roots. If all the roots are dark brown and mushy, repotting is necessary. In doing this, you will also be able to determine if the plant is pot-bound.
In New Mexico and many other parts of the country, the tap water used to irrigate houseplants contains dissolved salts (calcium salt, sodium salt, and others). These salts accumulate in the potting soil as the water is used by the plants and as the water evaporates. Salt accumulation in the soil results in damage to roots. In this case, it is important to remove much of the old soil and the salt it contains when repotting. Root rot can develop as roots injured by salt are easily infected by fungus and other disease organisms.
The accumulation of salt can be delayed but not prevented by proper irrigation. The plant should be irrigated sufficiently to completely moisten the soil. From this moist soil, excess water should drain from the pot carrying some excess soil away. Do not let this salt-laden soil be reabsorbed into the pot. Pour the leachate water from dishes under the pot or keep the base of the pot from sitting in the leachate.
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